Doing business in Africa part II: mangoes from Senegal

When you’re traveling to Senegal for the second time in one month, you can be absolutely certain: importing mangoes can’t just be done on the side, it’s a proper trade. Due to the unexpectedly quick development of the mango season from Ivory Coast, it’s important to realise a perfect connection with Senegal. And, as we have learned by now, that can’t be done just via Skype or over the phone. I recently learned about a race of people who had 23 ways of saying ‘yes.’ And 22 of those actually mean ‘no.’ That’s just one of those things that happens in Africa. So seeing, talking, feeling, smelling, and mostly, just showing an interest, are important. Putting your agreements on paper (and then finding out things went differently after all).

What does the average person know of Senegal? Not a lot. Most people know that the capital is Dakar, from the Paris - Dakar rally, and most people know it’s a dry country. Both are true. Senegal is still one of the poorest countries in the world. It’s the western-most country in Africa. Sub-Saharan, dry, hot and … politically calm. As the exception in the region, Senegal is very stable with an annual growth percentage of six per cent. It might be taking some time, but Senegal will make it. In turn, I know that, despite the dry climate, malaria still occurs. So back to the pills.

Dakar is large, crowded, hot and chaotic. Too much traffic not enough roads. Diesel cars are naturally everywhere. Diesel is an absolute favourite in Africa. Because the average car is about 20 years old, there are massive clouds of smoke everywhere. It can’t be healthy, but people just walk around in it. Children and youngsters stand near exits and junctions to sell their tissues or nuts in that thick smoke, it’s bedlam. Yet most people seem optimistic, and the atmosphere is never threatening or unpleasant. The boys mostly wear polyester football jerseys, the ladies are dressed more elegantly in colourful African dresses. 

In Senegal, mangoes grow from the south, on the border with Gambia, to the north. They start early in the south, in late May. In the north, towards the border with Mauritania, they start slightly later, around mid-June. All of the shipping takes place in the port of Dakar.

Every time I travel through this country for a few days, I notice different things. What is that odd Baobab juice with breakfast? Tree juice? Are the places at the back of the minivan cheaper? And what about the timetable of the bus if the driver has to repair the bus himself? That’ll be a few hours delayed… (mind the driver’s legs under the bus). But there’s not too much time for philosophical considerations. We have to visit farms, look at mangoes and seal deals. The show must go on.

Fortunately, we have a relationship with a very good grower, who has a wonderfully even orchard. The advice and practical support of a Brazilian cultivation guide come in handy. Water drips provide irrigation,while the pump pumps up water from 110 metres down. I’ve been told the underground basin will never empty. It refills with water during the rainy season. The Kent mango grown in this rocky soil isn’t as colourful, but it is very delicious. And, also pleasant, we’ll be on the market early. Everything should be all right now that Ivory Coast is disappearing from the market, and Brazil is only on the market in dribs and drabs.

On Friday, I witnessed the sealing of my first containers with Kent mangoes in Senegal. I waved it off, joined by 25 Senegalese women. The mango season had also started for them. We will continue importing from the south for a few more weeks, then we’ll head north. When they finish, we’ll all be back from our summer holiday, and the autumn fashions will be in the shops. 

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves. For now, I’m happy we have stable and high-quality mangoes. While I’m smiling as I watch the containers depart, I think to myself: “Don’t smile just yet, it won’t turn out the way you think…”

And I turned out to be right. On the second roundabout, the motor of my temporary taxi stalled. I had to push the taxi off the roundabout in 30+ degrees Celsius, still wearing my light blue summer coat, surrounded by honking and smoking cars. We couldn’t get ours to start again. This is Africa. I came home a little later than expected. Hars & Hagebauer imports mangoes throughout the year.