At the launch of the garlic season in mid-September, organized by ANIAIL (French Interprofessional Garlic Association), it was announced that the Drôme garlic would be produced in slightly smaller quantities this year, but to a high standard. "Drôme is the French department with the most intensive garlic production. The quantity of garlic produced in a small department like ours is very significant," explains Stéphane Boutarin, garlic producer in the Drôme department. "We also have two sectors: seed garlic accounts for 80% of the volume of certified seed produced in France. This is a real strength for our production area. As for table garlic, it accounts for 17% of France's garlic production. In both cases, we produce both conventionally and organically."
© Maison Boutarin
Garlic from the Drôme: a specific flavor and a high level of sweetness
While each variety has its own specific characteristics, the garlic produced in the Drôme, which has had a PGI since 2008, has a particular flavor that lingers on the palate for a long time. "Garlic tasting has developed in France over the last ten years. This has highlighted just how different and highly aromatic our French varieties are, in contrast to imported garlic. Our garlic from the Drôme has a very specific flavor, which is pungent and lingers on the palate for a long time. Our garlic is also very sweet, which is appreciated by professional chefs. Additionally, there is a real seasonality to garlic flavor, which leads to variations in taste, sugar levels and sometimes density of the flesh, depending on the year."
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A confirmed trend for first price garlic
Despite a campaign that seems to be fairly positive in terms of production, there are still major concerns about marketing. "Today, we are managing to market all of our production. But the trend is towards buying lower-priced garlic, and therefore smaller sizes. While the appeal of small sizes seems to be more pronounced, we must not forget large and medium sizes if the producer is to have access to a profitable market. Although prices for Class I garlic are still profitable today, we all feel that the balance is fragile and that the situation is tougher this year. If demand shifts even more towards smaller sizes to the detriment of medium and large sizes, the market could be dragged down and the French sector could be threatened."
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Strong competition from other origins
This challenging situation is accentuated by the significant presence on the market of other origins such as China and Spain. "In France, we have very tasty varieties, but they are less productive than those from other countries that are destined for export. China and Spain represent strong competition for low-priced garlic. Spain has been working on the issue for years, while France is only just beginning to take an interest. As for China, the garlic it offers may visually correspond to what supermarkets are looking for, but its taste, aroma and intensity of flavor are not comparable with that of French garlic."
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Despite all this, Drôme garlic, like other varieties and PGIs in France, continues to fight to promote its terroir and the heritage of varieties that make up the richness of the French sector. "The Association of Garlic Producers from the Drôme, which represents just over 100 producers, cooperatives, POs and EIG, continues to work to keep the sector alive, just like ANIAIL, which works for the common good of the sector. But in order to preserve the richness of our heritage and promote French garlic in all its diversity, we need the support of supermarkets more than ever."
© Maison Boutarin
For more information:
Stéphane Boutarin
Association des Producteurs d'Ail de la Drôme
