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Malaysian durian farmers adapt flavors for the Chinese market

In Malaysia, the cultivation of Musang King durians, a premium variety known for its rich flavor profile, is undergoing a transformation as some farmers modify the fruit's taste to cater to the Chinese market. This shift towards a sweeter variant has sparked discussions among durian enthusiasts who value the traditional bittersweet taste of the Musang King. Dr. Zulhazmi Sayuti from the Malaysian Agricultural Research and Development Institute's Horticulture Research Centre mentioned that altering the durian's flavor through genetic modification is possible but challenging, given the complexity of identifying specific genes without affecting other fruit characteristics.

Modifications to reduce the inherent bitterness of durians involve manipulating genes responsible for glycosides, such as saponins. However, such genetic alterations must adhere to Malaysia's stringent genetically modified organism (GMO) policies, which prioritize safety alongside scientific progress. The age of the durian trees plays a significant role in the fruit's flavor, with older trees producing a more pronounced bitterness. Concerns have been raised within the industry regarding the dilution of the Musang King's color and aroma, attributed to efforts to tweak its flavor.

Lawrence Ting Siew Haw, president of the Federation of Malaysian Fruit Farmers Association, highlighted the use of organic fertilizers as a method to enhance durian flavors, emphasizing the importance of maintaining quality over merely adjusting sweetness levels. The preference for the unique taste of Malaysian durians, characterized by a balance of sweetness and slight bitterness, contrasts with the sweeter durians from Thailand, according to industry experts.

Exporters, like Stephen Chow, a durian orchard owner, adjust their offerings based on international sweetness preferences, selecting durians from younger or older trees accordingly. The Federal Agricultural Marketing Authority (Fama) has facilitated the expansion of the Musang King market, with Malaysia exporting frozen and fresh whole durians to China since 2011 and 2018, respectively. Fama's efforts aim to position the Musang King durian in the upscale market segment, reflecting its profitability for Malaysian farmers.

Sources: SCMP & The Straits Times

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